CARE FOR ORPHANED RACCOONS
http://www.orphanedwildlifecare.com/raccooncare.htm
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IS THIS RACCOON TRULY
ORPHANED?If the young raccoon was following you around and
there is no sign of mom, if it is extremely thin, or covered in fleas, likely
it needs help. If you think mom is
still around, it is worth trying to reunite, even if you have touched the
animal, mom will take it back if she can help, she may come and then leave, but
come back for it in a few hours. Place the baby exactly where found in a
plastic carrier, with the door propped closed with a thick stick (so babies can
not get out, but mom can get in).
Monitor from inside. Leave outside overnight, as this is when mom would
be active. If by morning mom has not
come, the raccoon then needs help. RAISING A SINGLE RACCOON: If you determine that the raccoon is orphaned, it will have littermates that also need help so continue to check the area frequently for up to a week. If no others are found it is vital to the raccoon's proper socialization and release to be raised with other raccoons, a single raccoon has little chance of a successful release. Contact vets or local humane societies to try and find a buddy. If this is impossible, handling of the raccoon should be minimal, give toys to stimulate, keep confined (i.e. in a cage), and do not treat as a pet. It is illegal to keep as a pet, plus it wouldn't make a good pet, as it's a wild animal. AGING THE RACCOON: In order to properly care for the baby you have found, it is important to know its age. Consult the chart on the back to assess age. FEEDING: Orphans that have been without their mother will be suffering from chill and must be thoroughly warmed before feeding. Feed the baby raccoon esbilac powder, mix only enough for 24hrs and keep it refrigerated. Esbilac is a puppy milk replacer, which you should be able to purchase at a vet or pet store. Cow's milk, human baby formulas, and most pet products (except Esbilac) are not suitable and will likely cause death. Do not overfeed - baby raccoons always seem eager and hungry to take more formula, do not give them more than what the chart indicates they should be getting, otherwise they can die a very painful death from being so bloated!! Use a baby bottle, warm the formula, and place the raccoon on its tummy. The raccoon will suck. You will have to clamp your hand firmly over its muzzle and rub its back to get the raccoon started. Make sure the hole in the nipple is not too large, as this will allow the raccoon to take too much formula. If this happens the raccoon will sneeze formula out of its nose Stop feeding, turn upside down, gently rub its back, and gently wipe the excess formula from its nose. Repeat this for about 5 minutes or until the sneezing stops and breathing returns to normal. If severe this can cause immediate death or pneumonia on a long-term basis. To avoid this from occurring feed in a quiet room, go slowly and watch both the raccoon and the bottle. (See chart for feeding schedule) After feeding is finished wash its face well with a damp face cloth as the formula dries quickly and will cause fur loss. It is very critical that baby raccoons are stimulated to urinate before and after every feed. The raccoon may be doing it a bit on its own but this may be overflow and if not stimulated the bladder will rupture. To stimulate a baby raccoon, hold carefully over a garbage container, dip either your finger or a Q-tip in warm water and then light feathery strokes over its genital area will cause the raccoon to urinate and/or have a bowel movement. Once the raccoon starts to pee don't stop as the raccoon will then stop. HOUSING: Housing requirements will change as the raccoon grows and develops, see chart for details. RELEASE: If born in early spring, (March to beginning of April), the raccoons may be ready for release by late August, if they are about 15lbs and wild they can be given a “soft” release from their cage. Otherwise the raccoons will not be ready to be released until the following spring, no earlier than mid May. Once 12 weeks old they can be moved into their large outdoor cage (8'x8'x6') made from welded wire mesh, which is placed on patio stones. The insulated nesting box (2'x2') should be placed off the ground on a shelf. There should be a roof as well as wind blocks. They remain in this cage until they are released. An ideal release site is one that is near a year round running water source, away from farms, roads, and people. Before releasing it is important to investigate the area, if there are neighbours trapping or harming raccoons, they should not be released there. Also, check the forecast to be sure there will be at least 2-3 days of dry weather after the raccoons are released. DISEASE: Raccoon kits often carry roundworm and may need to be de-wormed, you can talk to a vet about this. Raccoons are susceptible to distemper, you may want to consider having the raccoon(s) vaccinated for distemper as well as against rabies. If you are concerned about rabies, you may want to consider having a pre-exposure vaccine for anyone who will be handling the animals-call your vet for further information. Furthermore, with all animals, you should always take precautions to avoid being bitten while you are handling the animal. **In some jurisdictions it is illegal to care for raccoons and you should consult your government wildlife agency. INTERNET SITES: There is some good information on the Internet, but other sites give advice that will kill the animals you are trying to help please be very careful. Consider joining the WLREHAB mailing list from this site, or to get more information.
www.tc.umn.edu/~devo0028/wlrehab.htm |
RACCOON DEVELOPMENT AND CARE GUIDE
|
AGE |
DESCRIPTION |
FEEDING |
STIMULATION |
HOUSING |
SPECIAL CARE |
|
Birth - 1 week Weight - 75 g |
- eyes and ears are closed - face mask and tail rings barely visible - very little fur on back and sides, none on
stomach |
Formula 4 mls 5-6 times/day and 1 time overnight **Raccoons will overfeed which can lead to a painful death,
adhere to chart** |
Stimulate genital area to
induce elimination - use q-tip or your finger tip dipped in warm water |
Baby animals should be
housed inside in a cardboard box lined with soft, ravel free cloth. Hot water bottle changed
frequently for warmth. Protect from drafts. |
Make sure baby is wrapped in
a soft blanket when removed from box (drafts). Watch for signs of diarrhea. Stool at first will be dark
(from mothers' milk) but will turn to a soft, pudding yellow (from artificial formula). Your raccoons will spend most of the time
sleeping in between feedings. |
|
1 - 2 wks Weight - 175 g |
- eyelids have begun to separate slightly (
thin slit) - able to crawl (cannot support weight) - back and sides of baby's body are covered with
underfur |
Formula 7-10 mls 5-6 times/day |
Stimulate genital area
before and after feeding |
Same as above |
Any diarrhea (from
artificial formula) should have cleared up by now. Wrap in blanket while feeding. |
|
2 - 3 wks Weight - 200-300g |
- facial skin fully furred, mask and tail rings more
prominent as hair develops |
Formula 10-15 mls 4-5 times/day |
Stimulate genital area
before and after feeding |
Slightly larger cardboard
box filled with clean, soft, ravel free blankets. Hot water bottle for warmth |
Wrap in blanket while
feeding. |
|
3 - 4 wks Weight - 500 g |
- eyes begin to open - ears open and away from head - respond to sights and sounds - developed characteristic vocalizers (churring,
growling, and an alarm snort) - fully furred tail rings - can support their own weight |
Formula 25-30 mls 3-4 times/day |
Stimulate genital area
before and after feeding |
Same as above |
Same as above |
|
4 - 6 wks Weight - 600-800g |
- eyes are open - well furred - canines and incisors visible - can walk, run, climb |
Formula 30-40 mls 3 times/day |
Raccoons should be eliminating on their own - stimulation should no longer be necessary. Attempt to litter train using an empty pan |
Require ample of room for exploring and climbing. Include toys - teething rings, rubber balls, squeaky etc. |
Hot water bottle no longer
necessary. At 5-6 wks can introduce
to solids. Supplement formula with
High Protein Cat Kibble (soften with water), and small pieces of fruit
(apple, banana and grape) at night. |
|
6 - 7 wks Weight - 800-1000 g |
- good proficiency at walking, running,
climbing - very active, sometimes rough fighting
characterized by growling, squealing,
wrestling and imitation of adult
defense postures) - molars can be felt |
Formula 40-50 mls 3 times/day cat kibble and fruit left in cage overnight |
Continue to litter train. With addition of new food items stool should begin to darken |
On warm, sunny days your raccoons can be placed outside in their large cage for play periods - place straw/hay on floor of cage to prevent injuries |
Once they are starting to
eat more of their solids, offer it in morning after formula and at night
after last bottle, also can offer baby cookies. Other human treats like candy, and breads should be
avoided. |
|
8 - 10 weeks 1000 - 1500 g |
- becoming increasingly active |
Formula 50 mls 2 times/day follow weaning instructions - fully weaned at 10 weeks |
|
- Continue to introduce
raccoons to large outdoor cage for longer periods - do not leave out overnite
until around 12 weeks old |
Should be fully weaned in
10th week and becoming used to the outdoors. Once fully weaned, give solids twice daily, the amounts will
need to be increased often, until there is some left over. Peanuts, cooked eggs, cray fish and earth
worms can be offered occasionally. |
At around 12 weeks of age, the raccoons
should be receiving their adult diet and living in the large outdoor cage. The cage
must have a suitable nesting box that is
elevated off the ground and lots of logs, branches and toys (e.g. a tire swing)
for climbing
and playing. Remember to clean the cage often and to provide fresh food and
water daily. Introduce as many natural
food items as
possible.